Internet woes

Rains are here! Everything is turning green, it is incredibly beautiful here now, it doesn't rain constantly and the sea is still and totally clear as is the beach. In fact it's possibly the nicest time of year providing you can cope with the heavy downpours when they do come. We are contemplating remaining open during next years rainy season as the runway will have been completed and planes will be able to land in all weathers.

Of course, just to help, the internet is down! I was having to travel to town to answer emails etc but have manage to rig up a rather Heath Robinson contraption with a Vodocom dongle, not great due to the weak signal, but better than nothing

We are hoping that Vodacom will come good and supply a booster/repeater so that we have a decent mobile signal at Ras Mbisi, this will have the knock on effect of internet access for guests (and us), it has to be said though that Voda are not exactly proactive with regard to keeping us informed so we may yet have to resort to contacting one of their competitors, we don’t want to as we have had Voda mobiles for over 5 years and all our 40 staff also use Voda, but if it becomes necessary the change will have to happen. Regardless, we are NOT going to continue to pay AFSAT thousands each year for zero customer service, 1gb of download a month and constant grief! (by which I mean the connection is down more often than it’s up and working) Had they been just a little reasonable with a small amount of ‘give’ we would have upped our allocation and had a second connection for guests, they would have made a lot of money through ‘on demand’ internet access payable via our 3G VISA provider. Being told, ‘it costs this much xxxxx, oh there is a problem with your connection, no we can’t advise you, you must pay $5000 for an engineer plus more for new equipment’ isn’t good, especially when Voda can provide 1gb for less than $30 a month!!!!!!!!!!! Basically they have not just priced themselves out of the market, their customer service is really bad, even for here! Our current mobile signal ‘drifts’ partly due to all the coconut trees (full of water which distorts the signal), and also we are 18 kms from the nearest tower. Lets just hope Voda sees the value of all those roaming customers and gets it sorted, hopefully in my next blog I’ll be able to tell you it’s all up and working!! For bookings, don’t forget you can book online with credit cards for no commission charge and know that your booking is secure.

Exciting news kept for last. Tribes have awarded us with a 3 globe rating for our Eco and Social awareness, despite the fact that we do not push our ‘eco’ or sustainable side as there is as yet no substantive international charter it is lovely to have it recognised by such a high profile Fair Trade agent. http://www.tribes.co.uk/countries/tanzania/accommodation/ras_mbisi

The magic of Mafia (Island)

Total treat for you today, a guest post from Catherine Woods and Olly Patterson who were guests in September 2010 - I think they had a good time! Catherine and Olly actually came to Ras Mbisi on the recommendation of other previous guests Luke and Kadriye Sherrington who stayed in March 2010 - love that the word is spreading.


We’re standing on a beach of white sand, so fine and powdery that it squeaks
when you walk across it, stretching in either direction as far as you can
see. Apart from the two of us, the only other visitors to the beach this
morning are the ghost crabs scurrying between the surf and their shoreline
burrows and a trio of black monkeys chattering in the trees. In front of us
is an endless expanse of pale turquoise, the horizon interrupted only by a
scattering of picture-perfect coral islets, and just behind, nestled between
the gently swaying coconut palms, is our home for the next 10 days: Ras
Mbisi. Which, roughly translated from the Swahili, means: “oh my god, this
place is *amazing*”*.




It started with a fish. A Kingfish, to be exact. Straight off the grill,
served on a palm leaf with crispy fries and flavour-packed salads fresh from
the vegetable patch, washed down with an ice-cold Kilimanjaro beer. We had
been at Jon and Michelle’s lodge for just half an hour and after the
revelation of that spectacular beach we were experiencing Ras Mbisi’s next
knockout punch: the food. Just-caught rock lobster, red cabbage with peanuts
tossed in a zingy dressing, spicy fishcakes, creamy linguine piled high with
fresh prawns, chocolate mousse, fruit salad with sugar-dusted donuts,
meltingly tender Tanzanian steak, watermelon and papaya with warm carrot
muffins for breakfast... And so much of it, far, far more than we could eat
after a hard day sunbathing, snorkelling and dozing in the sunshine – which
is pretty much how we spent our stay at Ras Mbisi.

There are far too many wonderful memories to list here, but, in summary,
here’s our advice: take the dhow trip to snorkel the reef and play Robinson
Crusoe for a day on your own deserted island (although it’s unlikely RC ever
got barbecued lobster and chilled white wine for lunch), learn how to play
Bao, kayak to the starfish sandbank, have a sunset gin and tonic on the
balcony of your banda, ask Rama [sp?] to teach you how to fold a linen
napkin into the shape of a dinosaur and get really, *really* good at
Frisbee. Or just sit and stare at one of the best beach views in the world.

This is not the place if you want nightclubs, jet-skis and internet access
on your holiday. If you like a door and windows (the bandas are open on
three sides, though still feel remarkably private) then you should probably
check into a hotel. But if you are looking for a place that ticks every
single desert island fantasy box, if you fancy falling asleep every night to
the sound of the waves and the breeze ruffling the coconut palms, then you
really can’t do better than Ras Mbisi. We can’t wait to go back.

(*probably)

Whale Shark season is here!

Well it’s official, the Whale Sharks are back! First sighting of a single adult just over a week ago, two more at the start of the week and then six spotted yesterday. Now that they are appearing in greater numbers the chances of seeing them obviously increase. Between now and early April we should be seeing more and more of these beautiful, gentle giants. They are attracted here by the plankton that starts to appear in the Mafia Channel from September onwards. We have actually seen them here year round, especially when there are young as the channel appears to act as a nursing ground – but the odds increase during the Kaskasi (north-east monsoon season)


From Wikipedia

This species, despite its size, does not pose significant danger to humans. Whale sharks are actually quite gentle and can play with divers. Divers and snorkelers can swim with this giant fish without risk, apart from unintentional blows from the shark’s large tail fin.’

‘The whale shark, Rhincodon typus, is a slow-moving filter feeding shark, the largest living fish species. The largest confirmed individual was 12.65 metres (41.50 ft) in length. The heaviest weighed more than 36 tonnes (79,000 lb), but unconfirmed claims report considerably larger whale sharks. This distinctively-marked fish is the only member of its genus Rhincodon and its family, Rhincodontidae (called Rhinodontes before 1984), which belongs to the subclass Elasmobranchii in the class Chondrichthyes. The shark is found in tropical and warm oceans, lives in the open sea with a lifespan of about 70 years. The species originated about 60 million years ago. Although whale sharks have very large mouths, they feed mainly, though not exclusively, on plankton, microscopic plants and animals, although the BBC program Planet Earth filmed a whale shark feeding on a school of small fish.

Trip Advisor Reviews

It’s interesting reading Trip Advisor reviews, mostly you need to read between the lines, most highly rated places will have a few really bad reviews in amongst the 4 and 5 star ones, did those people visit completely different places, or was it that they had either mis-conceptions about the hotel/resort or had they been mis-sold by the operator? Most operators dealing with small scale lodges in Africa claim to have visited every one on their books, this is rarely true! Africa, and Tanzania in particular get either glowing reviews or ranting ones, some people think they are coming to Disney World and expect perfection in everything, others appreciate that it is a third world/developing country and come with an open mind – saying that, if you are going to a five star resort it should be perfect, they are completely insulated from the outside world, just know that your money does not contribute to the local economy but to the economy of the country the owners reside in (or an off-shore tax haven). Happily on Mafia (with a few notable exceptions) the lodges are owner managed and the money stays in Tanzania, with the lodges running and contributing to projects on the island – and recruiting their staff locally!

I read one truly awful review about a lodge on Zanzibar this week (one that I know to be a really fantastic place), it was one long whinge about everything. One comment really stood out, ‘if you come to Zanzibar and XXXXX in particular expecting to swim in the sea you will be disappointed, the tide goes out at 11am and is out for pretty much the rest of the day’ – REALLY? Is it not the case that you spent 2 nights there and at that time the tide cycle was that, but that as the tides change with the moon cycle (no I don’t understand the science) that each day the high and low tides WILL CHANGE! The east African coast is tidal, there will always be a period during the day when the tide is out, it’s why most places have a pool!

More of my beautiful girls

A while back I posted a photo of Maddie, here now are her younger sisters, Scarlet and Georgia. Some might question why I post photos of my daughters on the 'lodge blog' but the girls live here, they are a part of the daily life of what is very much a family business, not an impersonal hotel.

'Chic Shack Awards 2010' Elle UK Magazine

Well it’s official, we are a ‘Chic Shack’ as nominated by Elle Magazine. Quite an honour. Despite being a Red Magazine ‘secret hotspot’, Harpers Magazines ‘Robinson Crusoe option’ and being the ‘Mafia connection’ in South Africa’s Ski Boat Magazine. We still get VERY excited about our 'baby' being in print.

Thank you very much!

'I'm up a tree'

Picture the scene, the phone rings, 'Hello, Ras Mbisi?' , 'Yes, this is Ras Mbisi Lodge, how can I help you?' 'I'm up a tree' - 'Umm, OK, where?', 'I'm up a tree near Ras Mbisi, please come and help'. 'OK, I need a bit more information, for one thing this is a Coconut Plantation and there are over 2000 trees so if you could narrow it down a bit it would help, and secondly who are you and WHY are you up a tree?' 'I am from the TRA (Tax man basically)I have come to collect the 'beach games & whaleshark fees', I had to climb a tree because the Ras Mbisi dogs were chasing my motorbike'. By this time Jon who was taking the call was practically on the floor crying with suppressed laughter.

The picture was taken last year on Ras Mbisi beach, please note, I was 8 months pregnant at the time!

Menu 23 Jan

Lunch - Garlic flatbread, Tomato Salsa

Crab Tart, Rocket Salad, Watermelon and Cucumber Salad, Three Bean Salad

Passion fruit curd shortbread

Afternoon Tea - Mafia Ginger Cake with Lime icing

Bar Snack - Karanga, Sambusa with Tamarind sauce

Dinner - Swahili Buffet

Fish Masala

Octopus Curry

Coconut Rice

Chapati

Spinach with nuts

Aubergine stew

Potato Curry

Okra with tomato

Beans cooked with coconut milk

Roasted cinnamon pumpkin

Firni - a kind of rice pudding,made with rice flour and coconut, flavoured with cinnamon and cardamon

Kalimati - fried dough balls (a kind of cross between profiteroles and donuts) with local wild honey

Menu 20 Jan

Rosemary flatbread, Tomato Salsa

Lunch - Crab Linguine & Rocket Salad

Fruit Salad & Cinnamon Biscuits

Afternoon Tea - Carrot Cake

Bar Snack - Chilli Popcorn, Kingfish goujons with tartare sauce

Dinner - Calamari & king prawn salad

Slow cooked Lamb with fruit & nut couscous and roasted vegetables

Coconut creme caramel

Coconuts

Ras Mbisi is set right in the middle of a working coconut plantation, guests love to watch the croppers collecting the nuts. Climbing a 100 foot tree that bends every which way in the wind is my idea of terrifying, all in a days work to the croppers who are self employed but heavily subsidised by our Landlords.

We use coconuts heavily here, the young 'madafu' (green or drinking coconut) awaits guests on arrival, very refreshing after the journey. Coconut milk in cooking and cocktails - coconut milk is not the juice of the young coconut, in order to produce it the flesh must be grated and then mixed with water, squeezed and strained. Coconut oil in the soap provided in the rooms, our roof is made of 'makuti' which is the leaves. The rooms and furniture are made from coconut wood, the fibres of the mature nuts are used to make rope and also mulch for the garden - i don't think there's a bit we don't use!

Menu 18 Jan

Lunch - Tomato salsa and garlic, sundried tomato and pine nut bread
Thai fish cakes,chilli squid, mango & flat leaf parsley salad, Green bean, Sugar snap pea & Red pepper salad with lime, chili & toasted coconut dressing
Fruit salad & Coconut shortbread

Afternoon tea - Hummingbird cake

Bar snack - Cashew nuts, Vegetable tempura & dipping sauce

Dinner - Crab & coconut soup
Octopus curry, rice, Steamed fresh vegetables, chapati
Mousse shots with Langue du chat (3 shot glasses with mousse, 1 dark chocolate, 1 passion fruit, 1 lime & mango)

Menu 17 Jan

Lunch- Tomato salsa and walnut bread
Lamb kofta,courgette & feta fritters, carrot & coriander fritters,tabbloheh, hoummous,baba ganoush,red cabbage and karanga salad,rocket and parmesan salad
Lemon curd Shortbread

Afternoon Tea - Chocolate & Beetroot Cake

Bar Snacks - Karanga, Parmesan Wafers

Dinner - Smoked Sailfish with Tanga Halloumi & Potato Rosti with Horseradish dressing
Lime sour beef fillet with coriander & mint, cassava chips, swahili spinach with sesame
Coconut custard pots with pineapple accompanied by cashew biscotti

A bit of History

Myself, husband (Jon) & our 2 daughters (Maddie, born 99, Scarlet born 02)moved here (Mafia Island, Tanzania) in August 2006 from Ramsgate in Kent where we had lived since 2002, prior to that we had lived in Sydenham, South East London for 7 years (we married in 1998). Since we became a couple we had been restoring properties (in addition to our careers in the Civil Service, and then in my case becoming a full time Mum), the fruits of our labours have been poured into building a Lodge here on Mafia. Currently Ras Mbisi Lodge has been open for just over 2 years.

Since being here we have had to; dig our own bore hole (and learn how to use the various pumps required), build a solar system for the house (no mains power here), restore the house we now live in, start a vegetable garden, employ over 40 people (for building the lodge then staffing it etc) thereby feeding over 250 mouths a month, set up a development programme for the local village – currently raising money for the school and clinic, set up a satellite internet connection and home school our daughters. Build a biomass gasifier to power the Lodge. Plus deal with both central government and local government paperwork. Learn how to live in isolation, in my case remember my long forgotten Swahili, in Jon’s case learn it from scratch. Not to mention learn ‘the swahili way’ – nowhere near understanding that yet!
When we moved to Mafia we spent 3 months living in an insect infested guest house (infested to us after the UK) whilst this house was renovated from a subsiding bat, rat and hornet infested pit into a semi-inhabitable hovel. We have been in this house for 3 years and two months during which time it has; poured in water during cyclones and the rainy season due to inadequate capping to the new roof, run out of water due to bad remedial work on the plumbing and the final straw, the NEW shelves in the kitchen fell down bringing all my herbs, spices, cereal etc with them. Why the final straw? Cereal has to be stored in glass jars, to keep the dreaded white ant out of them, Cheerios cost £6.92 for 750g, yes you read that right £6.92!!!!!! And i can’t feed my children cereal sweep off the floor with glass in can i? Olive oil costs £15.84 a litre, hmm can i mop it up and squeeze it into a bottle?!! WHY did that shelf come down? It was held up with ONE screw per bracket (3 in all) and NO BLOODY RAWLPLUGS which we bought and paid for and are nowhere to be found! Lesson in Tanzania, don’t believe that just because a team of builders from Dar has worked for Embassies and High Commissions that they know what they are doing, or rather they know what they are doing but cannot be trusted to get on with it for even as long as it takes you to drive to town for whatever they insist they need!

In addition to all that we run the lodge, I deal with food, bookings, invoicing, marketing, the kitchen & dining room, housekeeping, buying/ordering updating, Government permits etc. Jon deals with all things accounting, mechanical, building,electrical, plumbing, front of house, the grounds etc etc. Oh, and we had another baby 9 months ago, so we keep busy – if we couldn’t multi-task before, we can now.

At some point in the next few days I'll fill you in on how/why we ended up here, even if you aren't interested LOL :-)

Rambling thoughts

Much of what graces the plates at Ras Mbisi is obtained here, fish, seafood, fruit, we grow what vegetables we can(although the humidity and wadudu (insects) limit us somewhat). Everything else must be brought in, some by ship, some on the small aircraft of Coastal Aviation. The ship was due over a week ago, it's unlikely to arrive before the middle of next week now. Obviously this affects our supplies, but has a real effect on the southern part of the island as said ship brings the fuel for the Power Station, currently the main town and the main tourist area of Utende (i use these terms loosely as the town consists of a few dukas and the main tourist area 5 small Lodges)have no electricity, mimicking the problem on Zanzibar. Thankfully we are self sufficient in that regard as we are not on the grid and given our distance from the Power Station we are never likely to be.

It often surprises guests that Mafia is so undeveloped (and therefore unspoilt), there is no ATM, no phone lines, patchy mobile reception, no shops. This is changing slowly but like they say 'no hurry in Africa'!

Menu 16 Jan

Lunch- Sundried Tomato & Pinenut Bread, Tomato Salsa

Lemon Chicken, Crab Soba Noodle Salad, Cucumber & Mint Salad, Lime & Coconut Bean Salad, Avocado Salad.

Fruit Salad & Shortbread

Afternoon Tea - Banana Muffins

Bar Snacks - Chilli Popcorn, Spinach,Feta & Black Olive Pizza

Dinner - Roasted Butternut Soup with Toasted Seeds and Chilli Oil

Pan Fried Kingfish with Caramelised Watermelon, Lemon Rice & Steamed Vegetables

Crepes with Mango and Chocolate Sauce

Early morning trips

Kaskasi (northern trade monsoon)finally dropped slightly today, the sea looks like a mill pond this morning. Wageni (guests) off first thing to swim with whale sharks, armed with Bacon rolls, homemade pastries and strong coffee. Ibra our Dhow skipper spent 3 years working with a marine research programme and therefore has an extremely strong code of conduct regarding the Whale sharks, all guests get a lecture before he will allow them in the water. He and Johnson then swim with the guests watching out for the weaker swimmers whilst Bakari looks after the boat and gets the coffee and snacks ready for everyone when they get out. Hot coffee is always welcome after snorkeling even in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.

My day today will consist of time in the kitchen as always, as well as home school for the older two and playtime with the baby, not to mention marketing, invoicing, answering emails and trying to avoid the last three with timewasting on Twitter :-)

Menu 15 Jan

Lunch - Tomato salsa and garlic flat bread
Coconut &coriander battered prawns,rice salad,Loatian Larb salad,red cabbage,lime & karanga salad, tamarind sauce
Donuts with mango sauce

Afternoon Tea - Lemon Drizzle Cake

Bar Snacks - Salted, caramelised nuts, Guacamole with potato wedges

Dinner - Calamari Caesar salad
Pork Saltimbocca, Sauteed potatoes, broccoli, Green beans & Roasted red and yellow peppers
Passion fruit curd tart

Menu 14 Jan 2010

Lunch - Vietnamese pork meatball & noodle soup

Fruit Salad with condensed milk ice cream

Afternoon Tea - Scones with cream and jam, Mafia Ginger Cake with Lime Icing

Bar Snacks - Karanga (fried groundnut with coconut)

Dog Tooth Tuna Sashimi with Wasabi, Soy & Homemade Pickled Ginger

Dinner - Roasted Tomato Soup with Fennel Seed Rolls

Whole Karambesi (Giant Trevally)cooked with Coconut,Chillies & Coriander, Matchstick Potatoes, Roasted Butternut Squash & Mangetout

Pineapple Tarte Tatin with Chantilly Cream

Playing catch up

Having set up the new blog months ago (old blog at travelblog.org/bloggers/titch - note a lot of posts lost during travelblogs server failure) we have been so busy I have not had a chance to actually write anything!

Christmas and New Year were full and frantic, the sheer amount of food brought in and consumed was scary, the less said about alcohol consumption (yes Helen's Party that's you!)the better.

Whale sharks are now constantly being seen in the channel, these gentle giants are so amazing they actually follow the boat, no need to search for them at the moment. Combining a whale shark trip together with a fish bbq on deserted Shungu Mbili Island is a big favorite especially with honeymooners.

The photo has our dhow Kukulachi in the background and a local fisherman in the foreground.